Joshua Tree Journal, March 12, 2023

Our day with the guide in Joshua Tree was really worthwhile – packed full of learning and great experiences. Our guide Joey was very knowledgeable and great at teaching. We learned so much but he didn’t overload us with too much information. We can use what we learned and practice it.

We headed into the Park to find that they do not accept cash for park passes. We had only cash and were worried we would need to turn back and get a credit card but the nice lady at the booth told us to go ahead and pay next time.

We hiked a short distance through the desert to get to the pile of rocks we would climb. All the climbing areas here look like huge piles of very large rocks just jumbled together. Good thing they are more solid than they look!  

Morning Climbing Session at Superhero Wall

We started with a quick climb. Joey set a top rope for us. He explained that most climbs here can be accessed at the top with a walk or scramble up the back. The climbing was fun but very different. It was hard to figure out where to put my feet. It is very smeary here with no obvious footholds.

When I got to the top of the climb, I was interested to see the top rope anchor. Would there be bolts up there or did Joey have to build an anchor using gear? 

At the top, I peered up over the edge of the ledge to see three cams set in a horizontal crack. They were connected with a cordellette which ran to the carabiners which held the rope. A well constructed anchor, but three cams! I knew the theory that three bomber pieces make a safe anchor but I had never top roped on an anchor built out of gear. It seemed so small and flimsy to hold my life. The hair on the back of my neck stood up. 

I asked for take and lower and Joey carefully fed the rope out to lower me back to the ground. On the way down, I tried to process how three small pieces could be holding me so solidly. It didn’t quite compute.

After we climbed, we changed back into approach shoes for some work on the ground. Joey explained how to place gear and we practiced. Then he showed us how to build anchors and we practiced. Then he set up another top rope on a route that was easy climbing with lots of places to put gear. We planned a mock lead where Dan would belay me on a lead rope while Joey kept me on top rope. I was to pretend I was not on top rope.

Problem was, he had noticed a small rattlesnake sitting back in a crack near the ground not far from the start of the route. The snake was not aggressive, it was keeping far away from us but it freaked me out all the same.  

When it was time for me to start climbing, a lizard ran out onto the ground near where the snake was hiding and I jumped a mile into the air. My heart was racing and I felt short of breath. The start of the climb was very difficult, I was just moving up to get away from the snake area. I could barely focus on placing the gear. Also the footwork was really strange with no good places for feet. I was still freaking out and hadn’t really calmed down at all. 

The climb was difficult. At one point, I wanted to place gear and I moved into a kneeling position. Joey commented that if I stood up, I’d be much more comfortable and I would find good placements at a comfortable height. He was right.  

Joey went up when I was done and checked my gear. He said it was good except that some of the rock I placed gear in was a bit sketchy. I had to remember to check the quality of the rock before I chose to use it for gear placement. A loose or flimsy flake could break off if I fell on a piece of gear placed behind it.

Then Dan climbed and I mock lead-belayed him while Joey top rope belayed him. Dan did a good job of climbing and placing gear.

Afternoon Mock Leads

We stopped for lunch and decided to spend the afternoon with more practice and learning skills that would allow me and Dan to climb on our own. We did another mock lead, this one went way better for me. It was graded 5.4 and the moves were easier but I found I still had to stop and think in a couple of places.   At home, climbing 5.4 would be like climbing a ladder.  Here in Joshua Tree, it was a lot more difficult.  

We were to learn that the grades at Joshua Tree are really tough.

I relaxed and focused a bit more on the climbing, which was easier, and placing gear, which was fun. I planned where to place the first piece while I was still on the ground. Then after each piece, I’d look up and plan the climbing moves and where I would place the next piece. That worked really well.

When Joey checked my gear placements, they were all placed really well. Only thing I missed was checking rock quality. Again! I’d have to work harder to remember that.

There was a lot to think about with learning to place gear and climbing different rock in a different style. We don’t get much practice crack-climbing at home. It’s pretty much all face-climbing.

Dan climbed the route next and really enjoyed it. His pieces were all placed really well.

Then Joey taught us how to create a top rope anchor when the gear placement is really far back from the edge of the cliff and you need to extend it out. Apparently, that’s pretty common at Joshua Tree. There is a summary of the lesson at the bottom of this page.

That took us to 5 pm. Joey gave us one last climb, a classic J Tree 5.9, which we did on top rope. I fell a couple times trying to figure out the crux. Dan pulled right through it.

Boy, the grades here sure mean different things than back home. A 5.9 here feels like 5.11 at home.  

Next Steps

Our plan for tomorrow is to go back to the Superhero Wall and lead the fun 5.4 with no top rope backup. Should be interesting. There are enough ledges and relaxed stances to be able to place good gear and be protected. We can do it safely and get good practice on lead.

Then we plan to go to the Atlantis Wall and set up a top rope. We will climb easy routes and place gear on top rope. If we’re comfortable, we will pull the rope and lead.

Building an extended top rope anchor in Joshua Tree