On February 11, 2024, Dan and I climbed Acephale Falls. It was our second time climbing here. The gentle approach and easy climbing make a casual, relaxed day out on the ice.
The Beta:
- WI2
- single pitch
- tree anchor on the right
- can walk up and set a top rope
- descent: rappel or walk off
- 2.5 km approach, 30 – 45 minutes
- micro spikes are useful for the approach hike
The Climb
The ice is narrow and only one party can climb at a time. The belay area at the bottom of the climb is flat and comfortable and this would be a fun place for a group of beginners to hang out and try climbing on a warm day.
The Approach
The approach trail is shown in bright green in this screenshot from FATMAP.
Parking is in the ditch off the Trans Canada Highway. You need to be heading east to park so if you are coming from Calgary, take the Heart Creek turn off and head back towards Calgary. You pass a small pond on the right and then pull off the highway at a dry creek bed.
Hike up the dry creek until you reach the Trans Canada Trail. Then turn left and follow the trail for a short distance until you can move right through the trees onto a powerline cutline. Continue left up the cutline, looking for a trail on the right at a ribbon tied to a tree. The photo below shows the ribbon marking the start of the trail coming off the cutline.
There is usually a well-defined trail up to the ice. It starts through the forest, gradually uphill. Follow this trail up the creek, staying on the left side of the creek. The trail heads up the bank and climbs above the creek, then drops back down beside the creek. Continue up the left side until you see the ice. Leave the trail to hike over to the bottom of the climb.
If you wish to go up and set a top rope, continue uphill on the trail to the left. You will see a tree at the top of the climb, on the right side, with old cordellette tied around it.
We climbed here on February 5, 2023. This photo from that day shows the ice formed up much the same.
Acephale Falls is a great place for beginners and those looking to shake off the dust or return to the sport after not climbing for a while. But it can also be fun to climb here if you’re looking for a casual day that is not too strenuous.
If you’ve climbed here, please leave a comment below letting me know how you liked it. If you haven’t climbed here and you would like more information about the climb, please contact me by going to the Contact page or commenting below.
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