We have been enjoying climbing moderate ice in Kananaskis, the Bow Valley, along the Icefields Parkway and in the David Thompson area. Trip Reports for each of our climbs, including photos and detailed beta, are below.
Keep scrolling down for a list of ice climbing areas where you can walk to the top to set up a top rope without having to lead.
Also, if you would like to see Trip Reports for climbs of a certain grade, such as WI3, or for a certain area, like the Icefields Parkway and David Thompson, scroll down to the bottom of the Trip Reports.
To learn more about ice climbing and what the grades mean, scroll down below the Top Rope Areas section.
Ice Climbing Trip Reports:
If you would like to see all of our climbs of a certain grade, click the grade below:
The buttons below allow you to see climbs in each area. The Kananaskis climbs are closer to Calgary and Canmore. The Bow Valley climbs are closer to Canmore and the town of Banff. The Icefields Parkway and David Thompson climbs are great if you are doing a climbing trip, staying at the Rampart Creek Hostel, the Lodge at Bow Lake or, if you are like us and drive your RV out to Lake Louise campground for a week or two.
Top Rope Areas
I’ve heard that you should top rope 100 routes before you lead. But to do that, you need to find a place where you can walk to the top to set up a top rope.
This list was posted on Facebook a while back. Most of the areas I have not climbed. Where I have, there is a link to my trip report.
- Bear Spirit, WI3 & WI4 – near Banff. We climbed here a few years ago. We walked around on the right to get to the tree anchors.
- Acephale Falls, WI2
- Tokkum Pole WI5+
- Haffner Creek WI3 & WI4
- Junkyards WI2 – WI3
- The Wedge Smears
- Tasting Fear
- Blue Cheese
- Big Horn Falls
- Fjord/Hidden Falls
- Tangle Falls
- Balfour Wall
- Maligne Canyon
- Crescent Falls
- Isaac’s Wet Dream
- Owen Creek
- Cline River Gallery
- Nightmare on Elm Street
More About Ice Climbing and What the Grades Mean
Ice climbing can be a fun day with friends hanging out at a wide curtain of ice, exploring different lines and different levels of difficulty. It can involve leading or setting up top ropes and running laps. This is a great way to practice techniques, improve your skills and enjoy a winter day.
Ice climbing can be a committing day of hiking long distances through the snow to find a towering, remote waterfall that must be climbed in multiple pitches. It can leave you totally drained and completely fulfilled.
Ice climbing can be a day exploring a frozen creek, hiking and climbing up through canyons and rock formations, finding pools and frozen falls. A great mountain adventure!
Ice Climbing Grades
WI 1
WI 2
WI 3
WI 4
WI 5
Ice Climbing Resources
Climbing Routes App
Forget the guidebooks, this app has information on so many routes, it would take years to climb them all. It includes avalanche risk ratings, grades, locations and descriptions. Some of the routes include a navigation feature that enables you to follow the map on your phone and walk right to the climb.
Instructional Book
This book is a great resource for both beginners and experienced climbers. It has detailed descriptions of techniques with plenty of colour photos and exercises you can take to the ice to hone your skills.
Instructional Videos
Will Gadd is one of the best, most experienced ice climbers in the world. He has teamed up with Black Diamond to create these fantastic instructional videos, free on YouTube.
There are also a number of Groups on Facebook dedicated to ice climbing in the Canadian Rockies. You can learn about conditions – what’s out and what’s fat and ready to climb. You can find a partner and ask for information about routes and gear.
Best weather website:
Check avalanche risk:
Leave a Reply