The Crow’s Nest

The wind was chilly on the hike to the climbing area.  The Towers of Uncertainty are on a high plateau and it seems to always be colder and more windy there.   

We have been bringing a lot of layers – wool shirts, flannel shirts, fleece sweaters and down jackets. This morning I also put on my buff and a warm headband under my helmet for the belay.  

It can be a challenge to stay warm when you have the first belay in cool temperatures.  You have to stand fairly still for a long time, sometimes an hour or more, while your partner climbs and builds an anchor.

We set up below the climb and Dan prepared to lead.  He studied the upper section of the climb with binoculars to find good footholds and handholds and to plan where to place gear.

He led smoothly and strongly, looking relaxed on the climb.  Then he built an anchor at the top with a couple of cordelettes around a boulder that was back from the edge of the cliff. 

Unfortunately, he didn’t have enough gear to extend the anchor to the edge of the cliff and the rope ran across the rock.  We realized when he was back down on the ground that there was too much rope drag to climb on top rope.

By then, I was shivering and my hands were feeling numb, even with gloves on.  I didn’t want to climb.  I wanted to go somewhere warmer.

Lava Dome

We decided to hike through the Towers of Uncertainty to the Lava Dome.  There was a route there I had seen last year and I wanted to look at it.  It’s a 5.4 called Lava Lamp and the guidebook gives it one star.  

The route looked really good.  Better than I remembered.  I decided I wanted to lead it.  But not today.  I was feeling tired. More mentally tired than physically.  I wanted an easy day.  

I told Dan I wanted to go back to Bear Island and climb the 5.3 we had done last year.

Bear Island

We hiked back to the car and drove to the trailhead for the Boy Scout Trail.  I had my fingers crossed that there would be no one at the climb.  

This time, we were in luck.  We had the whole place to ourselves. 

My Lead

I tied in and loaded my harness with gear.  I was keen to get on the climb.  It looked straightforward with easy climbing and lots of gear placements.

I headed up feeling confident.  I placed gear well and climbed strong.

At the top, I clipped an anchor to the rappel rings and Dan lowered me.  I felt a bit more comfortable on lead that time.

Then he went up, making it look easy.  I told him I wanted to climb it again so he clipped the anchor at the top and I lowered him.

I wanted to lead it again because I was starting to feel more confident on lead.  The second time, it felt easy.  I was excited to lead 5.4 next time.

Dan’s 5.5

For his next climb, Dan decided to lead a 5.5 on the wall to the right of the 5.3 we had done. 

He climbed strong and placed gear where he could.  At the top, he set a top rope anchor for me.  I climbed it on top rope, enjoying the movement. The top half was easier than it looked from the ground. Maybe I will lead this one next year!