King Creek is a popular ice climbing destination for moderate, single pitch climbs. It’s a good place to take beginners and the area is sometimes used by mountain guides for Intro to Ice Climbing courses.

There are three separate ice flows which could easily accommodate three parties. It is the ice climbing equivalent of a rock climbing crag.

This approach is a beautiful hike up a frozen creek through a narrow canyon. But keep in mind that King Creek is known for being cold. It’s full of ice and it doesn’t get much direct sunlight, if any. I think it’s usually at least a few degrees colder in the canyon than at the road. Bring extra layers and a thermos full of your favourite hot beverage.

Beta:

multiple single pitch lines at WI2 and WI3
the approach is about 1.5 km, half an hour at a relaxed pace
descent is rappel from bolt or tree anchors
there is no walk up for top-rope setup, you must lead here
Gear: micro-spikes can be useful as the trail can get slippery

Access

The area is accessed from the King Creek Day Use Area on Highway 40, Kananaskis Trail. It is located near the gate that closes highway 40 south to the Highwood Pass in winter. It is across from the turn off to Kananaskis Lakes Trail.

The day use area is also closed in winter and parking is just off the road, in front of the gate. The climbing area is down the trail marked “King Creek Canyon” on the map above. The climbs are in the area in the pink circle.

Road side parking.

The Approach

The approach starts at the King Creek Day Use area.

The day use area is closed to vehicular traffic in the winter. Hike around the gate here and down the road.

Hike past the kiosk at the back of the day use area and toward the creek.

There is usually an obvious trail up the canyon.

The approach is mostly flat or slightly uphill as you follow the creek to the ice.

The trail crosses the creek a few times. Typically, they are easy crossings – no need to balance on narrow logs.

Micro spikes can be useful. The trail can get icy at times.

There are a places along the trail where avalanches have come down. Check avalanche risk before you head out and consider crossing the avalanches paths one person at a time.

The Climbs

All the climbs are on your right as you hike up the creek.

This first one is WI2. There are two bolts in the rock on the right near the top.

This is the middle flow, WI3. There are bolts at the top.

This is the third flow, around the corner, a WI3.

We climbed here on this day.

The anchor at the top of the third flow is a chain wrapped around a tree and a fallen tree with a quick-link. It is on the left side.

UPDATE: When we climbed here in December 2025, we found that there are bolts on the right side near the top.

On the ground, a bolt in a boulder provides an anchor for a lead belay.

We chose to climb at King Creek because we wanted to practice leading WI3. In past years, we have gone there to lead WI2 and with a mountain guide to work on skills.

The ice seems to form pretty reliably each year with the middle section coming in more in some years, less in others. The first flow, the WI2 seems to always form as well as the WI3 around the corner.

Below are photos of the WI3 around the corner in four different years. It’s interesting to see how it has formed a little bit differently each year.