Kerkeslin Falls is a three-pitch WI3 on Mount Kerkeslin in Jasper National Park along the Icefields Parkway. This is a classic climb for a good reason and we have wanted to climb it for a few years. On February 7, 2026, we finally got to do it.
The fires that damaged so much of Jasper National Park and the town of Jasper in 2024 burned the forest on the approach to this climb. The hike in to the ice winds through the trees to avoid the inevitable deadfall. Luckily, when we were there, there was a well defined path to the climb and we didn’t have to worry about navigation.
Beta:
- WI3
- 3 pitches
- 2-bolt anchors at the top of each pitch
- descent: rappel the route
- we used two 60 meter ropes
Access
The orange line on the map below is our route up to the climb and back. We took a slightly different path on the hike out but both routes were good.
The parking area is identified on road signs as “Goats and Glaciers”.
It is a large pullout with an outhouse and a garbage can. Coming from Lake Louise, it’s on the left.
The Approach
We crossed the road and found some footprints going up the bank and into the woods.
We found a worn track in the woods which we followed, going left.
The trail roughly paralleled the road at first.
Then it turned toward the mountain, winding around all the deadfall caused by the fire.
It was a warm day and we stowed our jackets in our backpacks.
We gained some elevation and the snow thinned. At times we lost the trail.
Eventually we came to the drainage below the climb. A trail dropped down the right bank to follow the creek but we opted to stay high, avoiding snow and deadfall that clogged the creek.
We could see the climb in the distance and we knew we’d have to drop down to the creek at some point.
This is where we chose to traverse the hillside down toward the drainage.
We found a trail that led down to the creek.
We hiked down onto the creek surface and followed it up toward the mountain.
The approach ice came into view. At this point, we had come about 1.5 km and an elevation gain of about 200 meters.
Approach Ice
We stopped at the base of the approach ice to put on our crampons, harnesses and helmets. We planned to solo this ice.
Something here I’d never seen before – the surface of the ice was covered with thousands of tiny, black insects. And they were alive! Talk about resilience!
I did some research later and I think they’re snow fleas eating bacteria or algae or something on the surface of the ice. Pretty cool.
Not a tough free solo up this step.
At the top, we found a rappel ring attached to the base of a tree. We used it to get down the step at the end of the day.
Above the step, the hike up the creek continued.
We had to climb over some deadfall at one point. Crampons are definitely not helpful on this terrain!
Beyond the deadfall we could see the first pitch.
The Climb
It was Dan’s turn to lead and he made quick work of this not-too-steep pitch. It was a great warm up!
At the top, on the right side, was a very spacious and comfortable belay. A two bolt anchor was joined by a chain and included a rappel ring.
The second pitch was shorter but steeper. I enjoyed leading it.
At the top of the second pitch, I saw the third pitch across a flat section. I knew there was supposed to be a bolted anchor and I look along the rock wall to the right of the third pitch trying to see the bolts.
I couldn’t find them.
I had walked past a big ice wall at the top of the second pitch. I was worried that the bolts might be buried under the ice.
I radioed down to Dan that I couldn’t find the bolts. He asked if there were any v-threads. I didn’t see any. He reminded me that other climbers would have needed a bolted rappel station or v-threads to get down and if I didn’t see any v-threads, there must be bolts. I wanted him to come up and help me search so I built an ice screw anchor to bring him up.
As I belayed Dan, I noticed a chain with a rappel ring to the right of the ice wall.
I had walked right past it!
Once I saw it, it was so obvious.
The third pitch looked steep and fun but quite slushy. We spent a few minutes checking out the ice under the slush to satisfy ourselves that it was solid underneath.
We felt comfortable climbing it and that it would take good screws, although some digging through the slush might be required.
Dan did a great job leading it.
At the top, on the right side, we found a final bolt anchor and rappel ring.
The ice didn’t end at the top of the third pitch. This is the view looking up the canyon. Dan wanted to head up and check it out but I was concerned that we would have a tough time getting down. I had read that there are more pitches up there but I wasn’t sure if there were bolts. And the slushy conditions made me wary of rappelling from v-threads.
We decided to do some research on the upper pitches and come back, hopefully in more solid conditions, and climb further up. If we do, I will take lots of photos and write a trip report for this website.
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